Chief Shakes Island and Tribal House of the Bear
Tribal house symbolizes spirit of Tlingit people

 

copyright 1990 by Patricia A. Neal

    The bounties of nature grew just outside the tribal house door for the people of the Northwest Coast. Deer roamed the forest, berries grew nearby, fish abounded in the streams, lakes and ocean. Trees became houses, canoes, tools, baskets and even clothing. all the people needed was close by or within easy traveling distance from home. This ease of existence allowed the peel to build permanent homes, rather than simple temporary shelters used by other indigenous people of North America.
    The Tribal House of the Bear on Shakes Island is an example of the permanent-type structures--and is a wonderful example of the architecture of the Tlingits. The house, once the home of Chief Shakes, is a replica of the original house erected on this site in the 1800's. While it is only a replica, it sits in the same pit dug so many years ago for the construction of his new home when he moved from Kots-lit-an, south along the coast of Wrangell Island, to the present-day site of Wrangell.
    The houses were built without the use of nails or spikes. All pieces, every support pole, fits into the next, supporting one another and the entire structure. Built of cedar, the house was made of thick planks and large posts and beams. The house was roofed with heavy split shingles.
    The houseposts belonging to Chief Shakes were removed from the original building while its replica was constructed. The houseposts, reportedly about 104 years old at the time of the CCC Project, had been left at the site of the old village for many years before being moved up to Wrangell during the 1800's. They show much weathering and deterioration from exposure to the elements. Even with the damage they incurred, their magnificence is still obvious to all who see them. While the stories of the posts were never passed along, it is suspected that they relate various stories relevant to the local Tlingit history.
    Of all the artifacts that have found their way into private collections and in museums, Wrangell is fortunate that the Shakes Clan Houseposts have never been allowed to leave the community. The carver who created the posts has been considered the master of all carvers. They are a significant part of the Stikine Tribe's history and known throughout the world. The houseposts were replicated in 1985 and now stand guard over the tribal house. The original houseposts were removed in 1980 for their safe keeping and preservation.
    Entrance to the house was through a round opening at the front of the billing. The entrance was slightly raised and accessible by steps, partly to protect the residents. Someone entering had to bend over, preventing or at least slowing surprise attacks.
    Inside, the floor was built on two levels. A pit had been dug to allow for a level below the ground. In the center of this area was the fire pit. The upper level was abode the ground and on the same level as the front entrance.
    The screen on the front of the house depicts the bear. A similar screen was located inside the tribal house at the back of the building which provided Chief Shakes with private quarters. The bear, an important part of the Stikine's history, is depicted with faces at the joints of the feet and arms, the eyes, nose and ears. The Tlingits did not understand how the body worked and thought that a 'spirit' operated the different parts of the body; thus the faces depicted in each joint or eye.
    In Shakes' tribal house, a screen was located at the back of the house to provide him with privacy for sleeping as well as meeting privately with his people. Other members of his immediate family slept about the house according to their ranking within the clan. Those of importance slept closer to the fire. Those members of lower ranking slept farther away, with the slave sleeping the greatest distance from the warmth of the fire in the middle of the structure.
    In the original tribal house, the screen at the rear of the house was in the shape of a bear. At the time of the 1940 project, this screen had been sold.
    In 1940, the bear design was chosen to be carved on the outside of the tribal house with the belly of the bear centered on the doorway to the house. Later, it was decided to carve a new screen for the interior of the house, using the design from the Chilkat blanket woven for one of the Chief Shakes by one of his Potlatch guests.
    To provide illumination for the house, Linn Forrest, U.S. Forest Service architect, designed double-ended figures that hung from the ceiling of the house by rope. The electric wiring running down to the lights was camouflaged so lights shining from the center of each figure was all that was visible.
    The tribal house was used for ceremonies that saw the last Chief Shakes elevated to that position in 1940. Entrance to the house during those ceremonies was by invitation only.
    Today, the house is held in trust and cared for by the Wrangell Cooperative Association (IRA Council) and is used as a museum to show visitors an example of a traditional Tlingit dwelling. While the way of life has changed dramatically over the years, the spirit of the local Tlingit people remains alive on Shakes Island.

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