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copyright 1990 by Patricia A. Neal
The bounties of nature grew just
outside the tribal house door for the
people of the Northwest Coast. Deer
roamed the forest, berries grew nearby,
fish abounded in the streams, lakes and
ocean. Trees became houses, canoes,
tools, baskets and even clothing. all
the people needed was close by or within
easy traveling distance from home. This
ease of existence allowed the peel to
build permanent homes, rather than
simple temporary shelters used by other
indigenous people of North America.
The Tribal House of the Bear on
Shakes Island is an example of the
permanent-type structures--and is a
wonderful example of the architecture of
the Tlingits. The house, once the home
of Chief Shakes, is a replica of the
original house erected on this site in
the 1800's. While it is only a replica,
it sits in the same pit dug so many
years ago for the construction of his
new home when he moved from Kots-lit-an,
south along the coast of Wrangell
Island, to the present-day site of
Wrangell.
The houses were built without the
use of nails or spikes. All pieces,
every support pole, fits into the next,
supporting one another and the entire
structure. Built of cedar, the house was
made of thick planks and large posts and
beams. The house was roofed with heavy
split shingles.
The houseposts belonging to Chief
Shakes were removed from the original
building while its replica was
constructed. The houseposts, reportedly
about 104 years old at the time of the
CCC Project, had been left at the site
of the old village for many years before
being moved up to Wrangell during the
1800's. They show much weathering and
deterioration from exposure to the
elements. Even with the damage they
incurred, their magnificence is still
obvious to all who see them. While the
stories of the posts were never passed
along, it is suspected that they relate
various stories relevant to the local
Tlingit history.
Of all the artifacts that have found
their way into private collections and
in museums, Wrangell is fortunate that
the Shakes Clan Houseposts have never
been allowed to leave the community. The
carver who created the posts has been
considered the master of all carvers.
They are a significant part of the
Stikine Tribe's history and known
throughout the world. The houseposts
were replicated in 1985 and now stand
guard over the tribal house. The
original houseposts were removed in 1980
for their safe keeping and preservation.
Entrance to the house was through a
round opening at the front of the
billing. The entrance was slightly
raised and accessible by steps, partly
to protect the residents. Someone
entering had to bend over, preventing or
at least slowing surprise attacks.
Inside, the floor was built on two
levels. A pit had been dug to allow for
a level below the ground. In the center
of this area was the fire pit. The upper
level was abode the ground and on the
same level as the front entrance.
The screen on the front of the house
depicts the bear. A similar screen was
located inside the tribal house at the
back of the building which provided
Chief Shakes with private quarters. The
bear, an important part of the Stikine's
history, is depicted with faces at the
joints of the feet and arms, the eyes,
nose and ears. The Tlingits did not
understand how the body worked and
thought that a 'spirit' operated the
different parts of the body; thus the
faces depicted in each joint or eye.
In Shakes' tribal house, a screen
was located at the back of the house to
provide him with privacy for sleeping as
well as meeting privately with his
people. Other members of his immediate
family slept about the house according
to their ranking within the clan. Those
of importance slept closer to the fire.
Those members of lower ranking slept
farther away, with the slave sleeping
the greatest distance from the warmth of
the fire in the middle of the structure.
In the original tribal house, the
screen at the rear of the house was in
the shape of a bear. At the time of the
1940 project, this screen had been sold.
In 1940, the bear design was chosen
to be carved on the outside of the
tribal house with the belly of the bear
centered on the doorway to the house.
Later, it was decided to carve a new
screen for the interior of the house,
using the design from the Chilkat
blanket woven for one of the Chief
Shakes by one of his Potlatch guests.
To provide illumination for the
house, Linn Forrest, U.S. Forest Service
architect, designed double-ended figures
that hung from the ceiling of the house
by rope. The electric wiring running
down to the lights was camouflaged so
lights shining from the center of each
figure was all that was visible.
The tribal house was used for
ceremonies that saw the last Chief
Shakes elevated to that position in
1940. Entrance to the house during those
ceremonies was by invitation only.
Today, the house is held in trust
and cared for by the Wrangell
Cooperative Association (IRA Council)
and is used as a museum to show visitors
an example of a traditional Tlingit
dwelling. While the way of life has
changed dramatically over the years, the
spirit of the local Tlingit people
remains alive on Shakes Island.
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